The Centre of New Zealand

Another beautiful day. It started with breakfast at a full table of 8, one other couple from Canada. We were having a boring discussion about where we had been and who was taking care of dogs at home when one of the women mentioned they had lived in Malaysia. After a break in the conversation I asked if either of them had read The Garden of Evening Mists and she lit up saying it was her favourite book. The conversation around the table became animated about that and The Narrow Road to the Deep North, and then onto the ANZAC role in WW 1 & 2 and what a price their countries paid in proportion to their population. They now lived in Perth, whose economy is based, like Alberta's on energy and mining. He had just been laid off but at this stage of his life not worried. It was amazing how similar our provinces were. Suddenly an hour had gone by and it was time to get on with the day.

My hostess and I mapped out a walking route around Nelson (there are books on walking Nelson) and I headed out along the little river to the start of the track going to the 'Centre of New Zealand'.  It was a steep, hot, humid climb and just as I was nearing the top a mother and her 4 year old daughter skipped on ahead of me. Yikes, she had climbed the whole way and still had energy to run a ways to show me how good she was at it. The view from the top I hope you can see, was amazing.  There was group of young Chinese there who wanted to take pictures of the little girl and were insistent even though she didn't want them too. I gently interrupted and they got the message. The little girl and I shared my water and after the group left the mom took my picture for me but not with the little girl. When I got to the bottom I went to where the art gallery was supposed to be but it had just been moved but further onthe  Queen's Garden and the Chinese Garden were both lovely. The light too hot for pictures and the photographer too hot and tired to be much good at it so I came home and rested for a couple of hours until the light softened.

This is the little, river I walk along

And under one of the bridges is a street art project for youth

What I really like about NZ is that they have are and poetry posted 

in all sorts of public places

And I love the big trees

The view from the Centre of New Zealand

More art and more birds in the Queens Garden

I walked over to the gardens and they were quiet and peaceful.  On the way back along the river a woman was feeding the birds. I asked her what the name of one was and she told me her life story. Mostly about loosing her husband three years ago and having a hard time of it. She was also worried that people thought she was 'a little off', which she was, but sweet. Since she couldn't seem to stop talking I suggested we walk together until I got to my bridge and then she walked further along with me to my place and wished me well. I had bought earlier a take away salad and it was a good ending to a good day and I still have the other half of my route to do tomorrow.  

The Bridge to the Chinese Garden 

Perfect rose to end a perfect day

Perfect Day

It couldn't have been a better day. Said goodbye to my host and went 'over the hill' as the locals call the road over Able Tasman. The sun was burning off the low clouds and except for the kamakazi cement trucks I felt good on the curves.  I stopped at Kaiteriteri Beach for a couple of hours. It is a beautiful beach and the houses up in the hills around it compete for expensiveness.  

I never would have found my way though Nelson to my B&B without my GPS.  For a smaller city 50,000 it covers a wide geographic area.  My B&B, more like an inn, is a wonderful heritage building, old but well cared for and it was a good price. I can't figure out why there is a Lotus and 2 huge BMW motorcycles parked here. I went for a lovely walk along the little river, stopped at the information centre to buy my ferry ticket, found a camera store and bought their last 72mm lens cap then had dinner at an outdoor restaurant right by the cathedral gardens.  When I got back I sat on the porch,worked on photos and enjoyed the sunset. As good as it gets. 

The red and white fields are netting to protect the fruit trees and grape vines.  

This is a big winery area.

This 'beach' is where the first settlers for Nelson were dropped off.  

It is the ugliest most godforsaken area. 

I can't see how they could have unloaded their supplies

Just down the way is Kaiteriteri Beach beautiful

and would have been  easier to disembark from a ship

Later 'settlers' built what look like the most expensive houses here

                                  They must have moved to the present location of Nelson 
                                   which is even further to the east and of course built an 
                                                                 Anglican Cathedral

A beautiful city with beautiful gardens

Just Being Here

Pohara On Golden Bay

I have had a lovely day.  The rooster woke me this morning and I’m writing this listening to the birds and the sheep calling to one another.  I took my time getting ready this morning and by the time I got on the road it was hot.  I was headed to the Farewell Split, the longest sand bar in the world but part way there realized there would be no shade and even hotter on the sand dunes which would be hard to climb.  I turned around and headed to Able Tasman where there is a great hike along up to Wainui Falls. 

By the time I got thee it was hot, hot, hot and just a little cooler in the shade. Luckily a lot of the trail is in the forest along the river but half way up I was dripping in sweat.  I tried to take it slow and easy but that is hard. Made harder watching some young people ‘boulder jumping’  There are a lot of big rocks by the river and they were leaping from one to another. I kept thinking if they lost their footing they would break a leg or worse but when they moved closer to me they were full of talk of the technicalities and ‘reading the rocks’ and totally pumped about finding the next set   I felt happy for them, there are worse ways for kids to spend their time. 

The trail to the falls was a steady uphill climb that got tougher near the top interrupted by a great suspension bridge. I probably should have stopped but was glad I made to the end.  It is a pretty high waterfall and I hope the images catch that. I felt a little wobbly on the way down took stops along the way and encouraged others who were on their way up  One young woman almost 9 months pregnant and in tight yoga clothes was hiking up on her own.  I started to tell her it wasn’t far and she jumped in saying she was having no trouble.  Maybe she was trying to bring on her labour. 

I have internet access at the picnic area.  When I got home I checked my email, and visited with the owner, who was in the British Army for 25 years and trained at Suffield and Wainwright.  All he remembered about Edmonton was the Mall.  How embarrassing. I did laundry and am waiting for it to cool off a bit so I can go down to the beech and try some more sunset shots. Still no clouds. I’m sorry I have to go tomorrow. I would be happy to be here for a few more days.

I haven’t said much about how much I am missing my family and friends. So much is happening that I feel like I’m not being there for and could help with if I was home or even if I had better internet and facetime/hangout access.  I called NZ Air and apparently I got such a good deal on my flight it would cost more to fly home early than it would to stay for the full time.  So I’m 'stuck with' having to make the best of being in a beautiful country at the right time of year.  Maybe now I can relax into the place.

Well Maybe it Depends on the Kind of Paradise

I do feel like I’ve died and gone to heaven after 8 plus hours of travel on the most amazing route to get here in Pohara next to Abel Tasman Park.  I left Pukakaiki early and the road was clear, mostly twisty, all up and down until it finally flattened out by Westport.  I stopped for gas and groceries. When I asked about the route to Takaka, both places said to go through Nelson. ‘You never know what kind of trouble you might get into up there on those little roads’  

Traffic got heavier as I travelled north but nothing to worry about.  I made regular stops to take pics and stretch my legs, at one stop I took my back pack for a little hike and saw a bridge that would have a good view for pics, it was narrow so I dropped my pack and went out to the middle to shoot.  Felling pleased with myself I walked back headed down the trail and was in the middle of talking with a family and realized I had left the pack behind with my purse, passport, everything I need at the side of the road.  I ran/walked back and luckily it was still there. These mini near disasters are hard on my system and make me wonder at my abilities.

I had a picnic lunch and pressed on.  When I got to the GPS shortcut I knew I wanted the road less travelled.  There was a restaurant on the corner and I stopped to ask their advice.  A tough old doll asked what I was driving and where I had come from.  When I told her she burst out laughing and said then of course I could do it. The road starts by going past acres of hops farms and market gardens.  It took so many turns without a GPS I would never have found the way without it.  The start of the climb up and around Able Tasman soon became a spectacular 12 km climb with 15-35 k/hr switchback turns all the way to the top and then almost the same back to the bottom.  Amazing views and almost no where to stop to see them. I loved it.  From the bottom it was another hour to get here and by then I was tired.

The Sand Castle is a bit park/farm/artsy space. There are sheep and chickens in the meadow beside me, a couple of horses in the field in front of me. Garden’s all around with rustic, artistic little touches but not fancy. There are about half a dozen bachs,  simple cottages. Mine is full of light and painted yellow with blue accents.  I learned this area is an artist colony, I can check it all out tomorrow. At sunset I went down to the beach and found some good reflection shots at low tide. I will be happy here and the weather is great.

Not Cut out for Paradise

On my way down a track to the beach I came upon a group listening to a talk on how forests are structured. I thought that sounds like Road Scholar.  When they finally worked their way down to the water, sure enough, they were the 18 day hiking group tour. They were grateful for the change in weather and I came away liking the diversity of activity that we had better.  Anyway, I spent the morning exploring the area but by noon the shade had disappeared and it was hot.  I came home, spent the afternoon reading on my deck then went for another trek along the river after dinner. The evening light is lovely. Besides walking and being on the beach there is horseback riding and river kayaking but neither of those appeal.  I’m ready to move on.

From my travels this year I have figured out how I like to travel when I’m on my own and it’s not sitting on a beach.  This place is beautiful, the weather is beautiful, there are some beautiful treks. The trouble is anything longer than an hour or so one way spooks me. There is nothing to be afraid of except my own clumsiness and being on my own if I got hurt. So while in theory I like these beautiful, fairly isolated places, the reality is on my own I need either picturesque towns of about 2-3000 that have different activities that I can join up with, or barring that, I like cities that are walkable, have history, green space, waterfront development, galleries, museums and street action.  I don’t care about shopping or restaurants as eating out alone isn’t a treat.  I like take away or making my own meals. I don’t like driving every day.  I would rather be in a fewer places longer and get to know the rhythm and feel of them.  That’s about it. I want to post this to remind myself for when I’m planning my next trip.

The trail down to the beach. The vines growing around the tree are part of what look like trunks on either side of it.  They start out as small harmless little tendrils but grow huge and eventually strangle the tree

The forest is beautiful

My favourite beach, not many people, interesting limestone cliffs and waterfalls

Above the View from my deck and 

below

 from the side of my motel