Coming Home

Wanting to make the most of my last hours is a great motivator. I had a last breakfast with Liza, packed up and went for a farewell walk through ‘my neighbourhood’ and along the river. Everyone has been so friendly and kind I have a hard time thinking I am actually leaving and will probably not be back.

The shuttle to the Osaka airport was easy. The freeways are fast but it is like driving in a tunnel because of the high barricades on either side. Osaka goes on forever and I thought I could tell the subway stations by the clusters of high rises. The industrial area made refinery row look like a toy set. The airport was busy enough for me but not overwhelming.. The lady at the check in desk took pity on me because I was going onto Canada and said it would be ok to take all three bags as carry on's ‘just this one time’.  It was a long trip home even though I arrived an hour before I left.  I was glad my friend met me and we could share a meal and catch up a bit before I crashed. 

Reflections on the Odyssey

It has been 12 weeks to the day since I set out and my first thought is that it is good to be my age and feel like I am still learning about myself and the world around me. I have had a much needed time out to recalibrate, live at my own pace and discover what is important in my day to day life.

I liked the balance of half the time in Canada, one quarter in the US and the same again in Japan.  I also liked the balance of time on my own, time with family and friends and time with a new culture and a new group in Japan.

I like the rhythm of shooting every day, working on my images in the evening and writing my blog posts before bed.  I want to keep the same sense of rhythm and productivity in my daily life at home. 

I’ve learned not to worry about being lost. Sometimes being lost helps you find the best experiences.  I feel more confident with my ability to handle new situations and problem solve unexpected challenges. Finally as they say it is the journey and not the destination.  

So until the next adventure thank you to all who have shared this one with me.  It is a comfort to know I have had your company along the way.  Til next time.....

Tha last day

Yesterday was hard to beat and I didn't try. It was a day to finish off my bucket list and make sure I didn't return to family and friends empty handed.  I wanted to see the Royan-Ji meditation rock garden, and I did, along with lots of school children which meant there wasn't a lot of meditating going on. It is a small garden 25 x 35 meters so Leonard was right when he said photographers needed to be there at the opening to get a real feel for it. There was a beautiful garden around it with an unusually pruned forest of cedars, which was quiet and meditative and made the trip worth while.  I also found some good gifts.

The Image

The reality

This part of the garden really was peaceful

I walked through some neighbourhoods in order to get to the Golden Temple but as I approached I could tell that it would be a zoo and opted to hop the bus and head back into town.  After a late lunch and a rest along the river with the heron and the old men I was ready to shop and start packing up. I soon realized that gifts were not going to fit in my carryon so back I went to the market for another bag. By then it was time to get ready for dinner.

Liza had made reservations to meet with Kathy and Al at a 2 star Michelin rated restaurant.  The Mavo is small, elegantly simple, and tucked in on a little side street in the Gion district. It was an amazing meal, 8 courses, each just a few mouth fulls and beautifully presented. I felt badly that we were their only guests. They worked so hard to serve just our table and made it such an unforgettable dining experience.

I really lucked out on having such a good group to travel with on the tour. These last days semi on my own have been a nice mix of doing my own exploring, having companionship for things we were interested in and company to debrief with at the end of the day. A great way to finish off.

Noh and the Aquaduct Shrine

This is out of sync and should be before The Last day post. Sigh...

It was a good last day.  The police called to say they had my purse and we could come down to the station to pick it up. By the time our day was done and the rain pouring down we decided to go tomorrow after most of the troops have left.  Pretty amazing they have it and so quickly.

We went to a Noh lecture by an older woman who also made masks.  She did a good job reviewing what the themes of the plays were and the roles of the actors, musicians and interlocutors. She said we could look at the masks but not touch as she used plant based materials that wore off easily. I though Noh lasted 4-5 hours but apparently an hour or two for most of them.  I would like to see one live.  

We went to a nearby restaurant for lunch and when we came out it was pouring rain which didn't stop us from going to our last shrine as a group. It was wet and crowded and hard to get pictures. We had to wait for taxi's and finally just walked tot he subway which worked well. I feel like I'm getting to be an expert on subways of the world.

The shrine itself is one of the largest and had huge beams, you couldn't find trees large enough now but it was too hard to get a good image.  Many shrines have had to sell the land around them as the land especially in Kyoto and Tokyo is so valuable.  In the shopping mall by our hotel there are two beautiful shrines that are in the midst of the stores. Some might say they are easily accessibly.

It was late afternoon, pouring rain and I took time to work on photo's and try to rest before our last supper.  It was a classic Japanese meal.  When I get hone I will have no idea how to order but am familiar with common dishes. Before I came people were saying I wouldn't get sushi much and that has been occasionally true but we get sashimi, raw fish, with every meal.  I am getting able to tell when it is fresh and good quality.

At any rate at dinner we had our goodbyes, everyone said a few words after Beatrice proding us. The common theme from both guides and our group was what a friendly, easy group we were. Most of my favourites went for dessert at the bakery next door afterwards. A good, low key way to end the session.

The gift of getting lost in the moment

Today was the perfect reason that to stay on. I was going to go a rock garden but the weather looked grim so I decided to just explore the neighbourhood in case the rain came too hard. One block led to another first along the river with heron's keeping watch over old fishermen and then through the streets to a temple, garden and large park.  It seemed like every few steps was a photo op with one unexpected happening after another.  Four hours later on my way out a special event was happening that I have no idea about but there were lots of people, politicians and entertainers.  The clouds were looking more ominous so I wound my way back to the hotel, had a  cup of tea and was ready to go again. A block from our hotel is a shopping area that goes for blocks in all directions. I have avoided it but it is an adventure.  Everything from little independents to the Largest Tagashaki department store. 

Over two hours later I made it back just in time to meet Liza for dinner.  We went to an authentic sushi place.  We were the only white people there, great food but no desserts. The down side of the purse event is that all access to my TD accounts is gone.  I have learned it is really helpful to have accounts in more than one bank. At any rate we walked the streets to an ATM then stopped at our favourite French bakery for dessert and more good talks.  
Today I still felt like pinching myself that I'm actually in Japan.

The Birds and old men know where the fish are

Their teacher asked if I would practice english with his students, my new best friends

There were kids all over the park, a welcome change from tourists

of which of course I am not one. 

Kimono's were everywhere, and even the men are dressing up too

They were having so much fun and so graceful practicing

At the back of the park I found a beautiful peaceful temple, garden and forest 

with no one around

The singers for a special ceremony

The Drummer prepares

Kyoto Police, Farewells and Museums

Ted took me to the police station after breakfast to pick up my purse. They were very friendly to us.  Apparently an elderly Japanese lady found it in the bushes by her home and brought it in. She was very upset about because she thinks foreigners have such a hard time in Japan they don't need something like this happening to them.  Ted called her and thanked her on my behalf.

Personal crime rates are so low compared to other countries I think police may have a different role attitude here.  My second police story is when Leonard and Alison were exploring and needed a washroom they stopped at the police station to ask where one might be and were told to come in and use their own.  When Leonard came out Alison was surrounded by half a dozen policemen with maps spread out showing her where the best places to buy antiques would be.  The kindness and gentleness of people is amazing to all of us.

I can feel myself winding down. Almost all the group left at noon but not before we made up an email list so people could be in touch with each other later.  I  packed up and was moved to another room then Liza, who is also staying on, and I headed out for the Netsuke Museum.  Netsuke are miniature sculptures of folklore, animals and everyday life. It has been pouring rain for two days so we took a taxi.  The driver had trouble finding it but once we got there it was well worth the visit. There was a video showing how they were crafted and there were magnifying glasses in front of some of them to show the detail. They were just wonderful.

We stopped for a yucky noodle lunch then, as it was still pouring, took another taxi to the Kyoto National Museum for the Rinpa Exhibit.  There was an art movement that started at the beginning of the Edo period and lasted through the 1800's. It is famous for its sometimes dramatic yet almost modern display gold/green nature screens, expressive faces, and stamp poetry pages posted on painting scrolls. There was also a buddha exhibit to finish it off  The lineups just to get in have been 2 hours long. We were lucky not to have to wait but the crowds were still big and slow moving. There were lots of Chinese as well as Japanese there as the time period Japan was heavily influenced by their art.  We stayed until 6 then a quick rest and to dinner for good food and good talks.

Today was too dark and rainy for pictures and the museums won't allow photography. I can feel myself winding down.  If there weren't things I needed to do I would have wanted to go home with the others.

The Philosopher's Walk

Another sunny warm day.  We started at the Craft Museum which was great but even more interesting was the international conference on GPS navigation that I listened in on. They were talking about flying planes without pilots and the strategies available for making sure that the GPS signals couldn't be jammed when a plane was ready to land. We weren't allowed to take pictures. I took these two guys before I knew that.

Day care or the lack of it is a big problem in Japan and it is a priority to expand access as they need women to stay in the workforce if they are going to grow their economy and care for the rapidly aging population.  

We then went to the Silver Palace, built by a younger Emperor who did not want to compete with his grand father's Golden one.  We aren't going to the Gold palace because it is too crowded. Fine by me this was crowded enough but still beautiful especially when we climbed up to the pagoda and looked out over the city. It was the most beautiful display of red maples that we have seen. We had lunch at an udon noodle house and had the afternoon to ourselves.

The silver palace has special rocks that glitter silver in the sunlight and one big pile that is supposed to represent I think Mt. Fuji.

Liza, Ruth, Ron and Iwent on The Philosophers Walk, a beautiful path next to a canal that linked several shrines. After the big crowds it was just a lovely walk.  A bunch of cats were lounging in the sun and I took the cell phone out of my purse so I could email pics to the girls. I put the purse back into my camera bag. At the end of the walk just a couple of hundred meters further on I noticed my purse was gone. Ron came back with me and we found my health care cards crunched up but nothing else. I felt badly but relieved that I have my phone and back at the hotel my passport and Canadian cards.  

The Philosophers Walk

Ruth, Ron and Liza

There have been a lot more women in kimonos than we expected

Houses in the area were lovely and very Japanese

Entertainers and Artists along the walk

The scene of the crime

We stopped in at another shrine on the way back and I think god wanted to reassure me because it was the most beautiful spectacular display of maples we have seen.  I was just in awe and it put everything into perspective


.

When we got back the hotel staff filed a police report and helped me call internationally to close my cards, which took over an hour and a half. I had photocopied all my cards and it could have been so much more difficult without the numbers.   My travel buddies were so glad we were all together and I didn’t have to deal with it by myself and I agree.  The hotel staff were great. Ted took me to the ATM to make sure I could get money and was upset as this is almost unheard of. There were so many tourists it could easily have been one of them. So all is well that ends well. 

We had an entertaining dinner with a calligrapher, a musician who played for us and a kimono designer.  The calligrapher wrote out our names on a card and told us what the symbols meant.  Mine was hope, sparkly, listening ear (or Jesus Christ?) and a bell.  It was like getting your fortune told. It was an unexpected treat and they worked hard to make a good evening for us. I'm tired now, feels like a long day  Will add pictures tomorrow.