Matsumoto Castle and Narai on the Nakasendo Way

I can hardly believe how much we did today.  Started early walking over to the Castle for a tour. As you can see from the pictures it is very different in daylight.  We arrived just as it opened to avoid the bus tour crowds, even so it was busy.  Ted told us in high season there are probably as many people going through as the whole time it was used as a last defence fortress. Inside the castle is a depiction of the first war when one side had guns. In seven minutes the best cavalry in Japan was virtually wiped out by the enemy using guns they had purchased from the European traders.

From there we drove to Narai, a beautiful little post town on the Nakasendo Way. During the Shogun era Nakasendo, meaning the way through the mountains, was one of five roads linking Edo with Kyoto.  Every year or two the feudal lords made the journey to meet with the Shogun. They would be accompanied by up to 20,000 of their people. It kept the economy going and helped unify the country. Today it is a quiet tourist town.

We had a wonderful lunch sitting on the floor in a traditional restaurant. I don't know what was harder the getting down or the getting up. Afterwards I had a great photo shoot in the rain until it was time to meet one of the best lacquer ware makers in Japan.  He works in a small woodworking shop using recycled pieces of wood he shapes on his uniquely designed lathe. It felt like I was watching my Dad work and it smelled like his shop.  We went up to the room he does the lacquering in and asked so many questions we were way behind schedule before we even got to the gallery to see the finished work and buy if we wanted to.  His poor wife didn't know how to use the visa machine and they missed out on some sales but I and others had enough cash to get what we wanted.  I had asked our guide to tell him how much my Dad would have appreciated his work and before I left he asked me to sign his book and that made me happy.

It was still raining and cold when we got back to the hotel. We ate in, had good talks and skipped the baths which are too hot for most of us.

Nari

Suyama-san Laquer Craftsman